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倫敦時裝周

2017秋冬英國倫敦時裝週 –女裝專題

--London Fashion Week 2017

倫敦時裝週被期許為充滿新鮮創意元素、與傳統並重的時裝盛會。(大紀元合成Getty Images 圖片)

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【大紀元2017年02月27日訊】(大紀元英國記者艾米報導)2017年2月17日,倫敦時裝週在Store Studios正式拉開帷幕,直至21日晚五時結束,預計吸引五千名來自世界各地的時尚工作者雲集倫敦,展出五十餘場時裝秀和三十餘場靜態展出。

Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)

相比巴黎女裝高級訂製聖殿、米蘭盛產原料和精湛的工藝以及紐約的簡約多金,倫敦時裝週被期許為充滿新鮮創意元素、與傳統並重的時裝盛會。這裡有百年老店Burberry風衣和Mulberry手包,Savile Row的定製裁剪套裝和華麗的皇家軍衣,有英國王室為服裝產業頒發的皇家令和女王勳章,盛產一流的羊毛粗精紡面料和愛爾蘭蕾絲。同時倫敦擁有兩所頂級的時裝設計學府聖馬丁和皇家藝術學院,本土設計師源源不斷地湧現。英國時裝委員會(British Fashion Council)對時裝產業的大力推廣和鼓勵多元化、兼併包容外來文化,許多海外設計師來倫敦學習深造,並在英國創立品牌,大量豐富多元的文化元素在這裡碰撞、沈澱精煉,也正是倫敦時裝週生命力和創造力的魅力所在。

17年倫敦秋冬充滿了驚喜,Anya Hindnorch的招牌笑臉、Mulberry淺色的綢緞quiting外套、Burberry秀場曲終時華美的變身、 Erdem、Christomhper Kane等設計師用刺繡、珠光點綴成璀璨的花卉,Daks、 Margaret Howell依然保持低調的西裝裁剪,極簡主義Eudon Choi本季帶來皮包系列。

輕柔嬌美、或明快絢麗的顏色一掃秋冬的暗色厚重,面料除了傳統的羊毛,還使用了大量具有光澤感的絲綢面料;面料紋理精緻,還有色彩豐富的絲線刺繡、流光溢彩的珠光繡片,天鵝絨燙花等花式;毛衫趨向細緻的針織,牛仔面料色度飽和、或多重打磨處理形成圖案。

連衣裙裁成自然直身略收腰,端莊優雅的及踝長裙、上衣的肩袖變化豐富、羊腿袖、 袖口卡夫寬大、抑或直接做成飄帶、大量的宮廷式抽褶領袖口,中式斜開襟。下裝多見寬腿褲、不對稱解構式裙擺加上混搭面料,層次感十足。

(一)秋冬之璀璨花卉

ERDEM一如既往的繁花擁簇,這一季的圖案是庭院樹木和花卉的組合,粉色和橘色的天鵝絨燙花散泛著美麗的光澤。

本季的Mulberry強調英倫特色,寬鬆格紋裁剪狩獵套裝、寬大的quilting外套搭配褶裙。華麗之餘,一款淺綠色的絲綢碎花quilting外套格外清透典雅。

Peter Pilotto、Simone Rocha、 Joseph、Daks也以不同的方式呈現花卉圖案。值得一提的是,在色彩繽紛的花卉圖案上,還有多種精細面料拼接混搭,精采令人目不暇接。 

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 17: A model walks the runway at the DAKS show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 17, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
DAKS時裝,2017年2月17日英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM時裝,2017年2月20國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM時裝,2017年2月20日英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
Mulberry時裝,2017年2月19日英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Simone
Simone Rocha 時裝,2017年2月19日英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Jeff Spicer/Getty Images)
Joseph
JOSEPH 時裝,2017年2月19日英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit by NIKLAS HALLE’N/AFP/Getty Images)

(二)華美宮廷風

Burberry以輕鬆的風衣、直身長襯衫開場,棉質襯衫上有荷葉邊、細碎褶皺等細節,不對稱粗針織毛衫搭在長襯衫外面。本以為一切在平淡中品味,然而在秀的最後,歌手Anna Calvi的曲調一轉,魚貫而出的模特們忽然以高級訂製式的華麗新裝現身,讓人驚喜不已。原來每個人都穿搭上一件件各不相同的唯美短披肩,有厚羽毛式的、珍珠式的、亮鑽連綴而成的披肩帽,據時尚博主稱伊麗莎白女王一世和男伯爵都是這些華美單件的靈感來源。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Models walk the runway at the Temperley London show during London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Temperley London 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Models present creations from the Burberry collection during a catwalk show on the fourth day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 20, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
Burberry時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)

(三)古典氣質

Emilia Wickstead利用面料本身的質感,立體裁剪出寬鬆帶有體量的女性化廓形,在腰際鬆鬆地打上褶,營造出一種自然含蓄的古典風範。

A model presents a creation by New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead during a catwalk show on the second day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 18, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
設計師Emilia Wickstead的時裝作品,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
A model presents a creation by New Zealand-born designer Emilia Wickstead during a catwalk show on the second day of the Autumn/Winter 2017 London Fashion Week in London on February 18, 2017. / AFP / Daniel LEAL-OLIVAS (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
設計師Emilia Wickstead的時裝作品,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo credit should read DANIEL LEAL-OLIVAS/AFP/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: Erin O'Connor walks the runway at the ERDEM show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)
ERDEM 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Eamonn M. McCormack/Getty Images)

(四)美好的純真

Anya Hindnorch的秀場似乎總有道不盡的美麗童話。幾何形的山坡變換著色彩光影, 粉色、橘色、藍色、明黃色、灰色羊絨面料裁剪成款式乖巧的外套,搭上方方的皮草翻領,或者是染色明亮、毛茸茸的方形皮草披肩,教養良好的富家少女背著書包漫步在未來感十足的光潔小山坡上,純真無邪,十分嬌憨可愛。

Margaret Howell依然率真英倫少女形象,簡潔寬大的襯衫和西裝裁剪,搭配針織帽,不愛繁複的裝飾,只愛簡單的本色。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Models prepare backstage ahead of the Anya Hindmarch show during London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Anya Hindmarch 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: Model walk on the runway at the Anya Hindmarch show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images)
Anya Hindmarch時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by John Phillips/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Margaret Howell show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections at Rambert on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
Margaret Howell時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 19: A model walks the runway at the Margaret Howell show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections at Rambert on February 19, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
Margaret Howell時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)

(五)青春無邊界

一系列大膽的色彩和廓形詮釋倫敦時裝週的大膽創意。2014年得到LVHM大獎的 Marques’Almeida ,本季帶來色彩飽和藍色的牛仔,以及粗獷的不對稱解構線條、充滿力量的色彩和幾何圖形。

Christomhper Kane本季在柔軟的面料上使用大量金屬色,造型十分前衛。

LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 18: A model walks the runway at the House of Holland show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 18, 2017 in London, England (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Tim P. Whitby/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 20: A model walks the runway at the Christopher Kane show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 20, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Mike Marsland/Getty Images)
Christopher Kane 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Mike Marsland/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 21: A model walks the runway at the Marques'Almeida show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 21, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Marques’Almeida 時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
LONDON, ENGLAND - FEBRUARY 21: A model walks the runway at the Marques'Almeida show during the London Fashion Week February 2017 collections on February 21, 2017 in London, England. (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)
Marques’Almeida時裝,2017年2月英國倫敦時裝周 (Photo by Stuart C. Wilson/Getty Images)

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