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加拿大诞辰把酒悠然话“国菜”

宁姨

正好是三文鱼和草莓的产季,我们不如就来个三文鱼汉堡吧,加上草莓蛋糕作为甜点——咦,红色的草莓、白色的奶油,不就是加拿大国旗的颜色吗?! (宁姨提供)

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【大纪元2014年08月03日讯】专栏作者简介:
  宁姨(Judith Lane),卑诗省知名美食及酒文作家,现定居温哥华。曾先后居住在四个省份和育空地区,也游访过加拿大多个大小城镇。她除了在温哥华太阳报Grapevine及Gayot.com论酒专栏写博客,亦经常为The Georgia Straight、Taste等报刊媒体撰写文章,更是美酒佳肴赛事的常任评委。
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加拿大诞辰把酒悠然话“国菜”
   英文原作:宁姨 Judith Lane
   中文文字整理:大纪元报人

加拿大147岁生日来临。每个家庭都有各自庆祝的方式,但美味的国庆大餐是必不可少的。在这里,让我们一起随本土美食家来创意具有代表性与象征意义的国庆菜谱。有趣的是,你会发现,在加拿大以多元文化著称的社会里,在这个汇集世界饮食文化精髓、优质食材多得令人眼花缭乱、美食品种日新月异的文化大国里,竟然没有一道被公认的“国菜”!这究竟是怎么回事呢?是各种文化相互之间在谦让,还是文化的历史正在等待开创?

我出生在一个军人家庭。在我的记忆里,部队经常调防,通常一到暑假我们全家都会随军搬迁。常年下来,我们的足迹几乎遍布整个加拿大。我也总是有机会踏入一个全新的环境、进入新学校、结交新朋友、品尝不同地方风味的美食。

期间,父亲曾由于工作关系跟着部队在亚洲驻扎了几年。从那时起,父亲爱上了烹饪,他回家的时候,都会在周五晚上为全家人做一顿中餐。虽然只是简单的炒饭,但却是那样的美味,我们爱吃极了。也是从那时起,年纪小小的我和姐妹们就学会了用筷子品味美食……

转眼间,加拿大国庆日又快到了,“加拿大的国菜,或者说加拿大的经典美食究竟是哪一款?”这个一向具有争议性的老话题又再次被提起——人们就这一话题已经争论不休好多年了。加拿大不同于意大利、法国、日本和阿根廷等这些国家,人家对于“国菜”都有很清楚的概念,唯独加拿大人对于“国菜”,至今仍未有定论。
  
其实,物产丰盛的加拿大出产的优质食材,其品种称得上数不胜数,各种著名美食也多得令人目不暇给。譬如新斯科舍省的龙虾、爱德华王子岛的土豆及加东的蚝;魁北克省的烟熏肉、香草肉末派、法式酱汁薯条和枫叶糖浆;多伦多呢,有令人食指大动的豌豆培根三明治,还有著名的甜甜圈咖啡连锁食店Tim Horton’s,以及Swiss Chalet(这是从安省起家而后发展遍布全加的连锁餐厅);至于高原省份,不但出产扁豆、小麦和芥花籽,其江河湖泊还盛产梭子鱼、比高鱼、鳟鱼和白斑等淡水鱼;亚省呢,有遐尔闻名的牛肉;卑诗省,则有猪肉、羊肉、三文鱼、斑点虾以及西岸大肉蟹,还有蓝莓、小红莓、樱桃等等水果,还有不可不提的举世闻名的甜点乃乃模糖糕(Nanaimo Bar)。
  
讲起美食少不得要提到佳酿:加拿大的葡萄酒是名声在外的。我们的酿酒业主要集中在卑诗省和安省,而酿造烈酒的历史已经有200多年之久,比1876年起始的建国历史还要长。
  
而加拿大的饮食文化发源也是有史可究的。加拿大的原住民早在一万或一万三千年前就已经生活在这块幅员辽阔的土地上,并且很早就将海鲜、野味、蕨菜、炸包等食物搬上了“餐桌”。不过真正意义上的加拿大风味美食起源自17世纪第一批英、法移民。当时狩猎的原住民不断聚居,人口也在不断增长、变化,加上来自世界各地的移民带来了他们各自的饮食文化,使得烹饪风格更多样。时至今日,我们的冰箱和橱柜里挤满了世界各地的食材,美食品种更是日新月异。
  
言归正传, 2014年加拿大国庆147周年,我们该以怎样的具有代表意义的应节美食来庆祝呢?
  
国庆日是所有加拿大人的节日,聚会、游行、音乐和烟花这些传统项目是必不可少的。这一天的入籍仪式也是重头戏(很多人选择在这个重要的日子里成为加拿大公民),不过,最为人头涌涌的地方还是在公园里、海滩边——人们看完游行就去野餐,晚上还未等夜色降临就提前去等着看烟花汇演。依此推断,大多数人的晚餐很可能都会选择户外烧烤,那么,食材不外乎三文鱼、牛排和汉堡等。这些食材都可以在本地市场方便买到。市场上的卑诗省和亚省产的牛排存货非常充足。还可以直接到列治文渔人码头,现场选购新鲜的海产。
  
讲到国庆菜谱……嗯,说老实话,从小时候起一直到现在,我最喜欢吃的始终都还是老爸烤的那款汉堡包和热狗,不过,今天我们的选择可以来得更加多元化一些……那么,我们不妨来尝尝牛肉、火鸡或三文鱼汉堡包。现在正好是三文鱼和草莓的产季,我们不如就来个三文鱼汉堡吧,加上草莓蛋糕作为甜点——咦,红色的草莓、白色的奶油,不就是加拿大国旗的颜色吗?!哈哈! 对了,再配上一杯玫瑰葡萄酒,这总该算是最应节的菜式了吧。
  
选用Joie Farm 获奖无数的“Re-Think Pink Rose 2013”玫瑰葡萄酒, 桃红色的酒配搭三文鱼汉堡,与松软的甜点,也该算得上绝配啦。这种葡萄酒口感清爽,酒色清亮, 草莓味中带有橘香。在卑诗酒铺、酒类协会或私人葡萄酒专卖店都可以买到。

佳肴共美酒。
  加拿大,我们祝您生日快乐!

加拿大国旗小常识:
  
加拿大国旗绘有一片11个角的红枫叶,又被称为枫叶旗(英语:Maple Leaf),在法语区被称为单叶旗(法语:l’Unifolie)。枫叶旗自1965年被枢密院采用,以替代英国国旗,是代表加拿大的官方旗帜。
  
加拿大国旗由红白二色组成。中间的白色代表加拿大广阔无垠的国土,两侧的红色代表的是东西两岸的大西洋和太平洋。中间 的红色枫叶则是象征生活在加拿大富饶国土上的人民 。参议长莫里斯‧布尔杰曾说:“我们的国旗象征着国家的统一,因为它代表着加拿大的全体公民,不分种族、语言、信仰或理念。”(资料来源:维基百科、加拿大政府网站) @

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Column: Canadian Food Lane

About Judith Lane

Judith Lane is a Vancouver-based food and wine writer. Growing up in a military family, she has lived in four different provinces and the Yukon (and visited most of the rest). Her work appears in the Vancouver Sun’s The Grapevine blog, Gayot.com, the Georgia Straight, and more. She is a long-standing wine and food competition judge.

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Canadian Food and Canada Day
By Judith Lane

Growing up in a military family, we spent our summer vacations moving across the country to new towns, new schools, new friends, and new food. My father was an avid fisherman and my mother, a former Manitoba farm girl, planted a garden everywhere we lived. My sisters and I grew to love gardening and all have home gardens today. Of the three of us, I was hooked on fishing.

As part of his job, my father spent a couple of years living in Asia. He enjoyed cooking and when he returned home, he made ‘Chinese’ food every Friday night. This was basically a simple, tasty stir-fry with rice that we loved and accordingly we learned to use chopsticks at a young age.

With Canada Day approaching, it’s a good time to ask, “Is there such a thing as Canadian food?” It’s been the subject of debate for years. Other countries and cultures–consider Italy, France, Japan, and Argentina–all have easily identifiable cuisines but what does Canada have?

Plenty as it turns out. Think regional ingredients and dishes like Nova Scotia lobster and PEI potatoes, and Maritimes oysters; Quebec is revered for smoked meat, tourtière, poutine, and maple syrup; Toronto’s pea-meal bacon sandwich is a source of pride, as are Tim Horton’s and Swiss Chalet (these Canada-wide restaurants began in Ontario); the prairie provinces grow lentils, wheat and canola and enjoy fresh water fish like pickerel, pike, trout and walleye pulled from rivers and lakes; Alberta scores with beef and bison; BC produces pork, lamb, salmon, spot prawns and Dungeness crab, blueberries, cranberries, cherries and the world-famous Nanaimo bar. Our Aboriginal citizens bring fish, game, fiddleheads, bannock and more to the table.

Not to be forgotten are the country’s wine producers, predominantly BC and Ontario. Canada has been producing spirits for upwards of two hundred years, long before it officially became a country in 1867.

Canadian cuisine began with the first immigrants–the English and French–who first settled in the East in the early 1600s although Aboriginals arrived 10,000 to 13,000 years earlier. Since those hunt-and-gather days, it has grown and changed with our ever-expanding population base that includes people from most parts of the globe. They’ve brought their food culture with them enriching and expanding our culinary borders. Today our cupboards and fridges are stocked with ingredients from around the world and we use them as a matter of course in our everyday cooking.

With Canada Day around the corner, the question is what will we eat on July 1 to celebrate our country’s 147th birthday?

The day is all about family, friends, food, parades, citizenship ceremonies, music and fireworks. We flock to beaches and parks for picnics in the daytime, and later in the evening as we stake out prime spots to watch Canada Day fireworks displays that many communities put on. You can bet that dinner too will likely be out of doors as we fire up barbecues to grill salmon, steaks, and burgers.

We have easy access to the freshest fish at local markets and from fishermen who sell directly to the public at docks in Vancouver and Steveston. Local butchers and markets are well stocked with BC and Alberta steaks.

As kids, our family favourites were hamburgers and hotdogs that Dad cooked on the grill. This hasn’t changed but today we’re likely to opt for bison (buffalo), turkey or salmon burgers.

This year with both salmon and strawberries in season, we’re having salmon burgers followed by strawberry shortcake for dessert (the cake’s ripe red berries and whipping cream are the colours of the Canadian flag), pairing both with BC rosé.

Happy Birthday Canada!

Wine pairing: JoieFarm Re-Think Pink Rosé 2013

JoieFarm’s versatile, easy drinking rosé will complement both the salmon burger and the cake. It’s off dry, crisp and bright, tasting of strawberries, spice and citrus. Find it at BC Liquor stores, VQA and private wine stores.

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2014-08-03 3:56 PM
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